iPhone App Saves Fuel

What is really needed is more apps for fuel conservation.

by Megan Treacy,   www.treehugger.com

A new fuel-efficiency-focused app for iPhone, Android and Windows phones called EcoSpeed claims fuel savings of 30 percent of more with its routing technology that also nudges drivers toward more fuel-sipping behavior as they go.

EcoSpeed factors in traffic stops, speed limits and current traffic conditions to plot the most fuel-efficient route to your destination using Google Maps. Once a driver gets going, the app monitors driving behavior using the phone’s GPS and makes fuel-saving suggestions, like making slower accelerations from traffic signals or maintaining certain speeds on the highway.

Users can program in preferences as to whether to prioritize fuel efficiency or speed on any trip. You may want to just get there quickly when you’re running late for work, but on those longer road trips, favoring efficiency could make a major impact — a 30 percent improvement on fuel use adds up to a lot less money spent on gas and a nice slash in emissions.

The app allows users to plug in the current price of gas as well as the fuel economy specifics of their car so that it calculates real-time fuel consumption and cost savings information along the way.

You can currently demo EcoSpeed’s routing on its website and developers can access the API for their own websites or mobile apps. The full-fledged app will be available for iPhone and Android phones for free in March, while the Windows phone version is coming soon.

Great Stuff to the Rescue

First Air Infiltration and then Heating and Cooling and then …

by Stephen and Courtney, http://e-conserve.blogspot.com

Over the next several months, we’re going to be telling you 100+ Ways to Improve your Electric Bill. Many of these are low cost and no cost tips, and easy to implement. We’d like to thank our friends at the Edison Electric Institute for the quality list.

This week we’ll be referencing Air Infiltration. You might remember our post, Insulate on Saturday, Watch Football on Sunday, air infiltration (conditioned air leaking out and unconditioned air coming in) is a common problem that many people don’t see, but it can add up to big savings.

Here are a few tips:

1.  Thermal Insulation

The single most important step in residential energy conservation is the installation of thermal insulation. Check current insulation levels, and properly insulate a new or existing home according to the U.S. Department of Energy’s (DOE’s) specifications for your geographic area. Insulate ceilings, walls, and floors over unconditioned crawl spaces.

Air Sealing Window Frame

2.  Windows

Double-glazed windows (two panes of glass separated by a sealed air space) cut heat transfer by 40 to 50 percent. In extremely cold regions, triple glazing could be economically justified.

3. Storm Windows

Single-glazed windows should have storm windows. A wood- or metal-framed storm window provides a second thickness of glass and a layer of still air that reduces heat transmission markedly.

4. Storm Doors

Install storm doors at all entrances of your house. A storm door helps save energy because it reduces the air infiltration that occurs when the prime door is opened and also reduces the amount of heat transfer through the prime door when it is closed.

Outlet Weatherstripping

5. Weatherstripping

Weatherstrip and caulk around all entrance doors and windows to limit air leaks that could account for 15 to 30 percent of heating and cooling energy requirements.

6. Relative Humidity

In the winter, the air is normally dry inside your house. This is a disadvantage because, to be comfortable in dry air, people typically require a higher temperature than they would in a humid environment. Therefore, efficient humidifiers are a good investment for energy conservation.

7. Garage Doors

Keep the overhead door of an attached garage closed to block cold winds from infiltrating the connecting door between the house and garage.

8. Air Sealing

Find the obvious places where air can sneak into your home, then make repairs to plug the leaks by caulking, weatherstripping, and using plastic covers.

Air Sealing Bottom Plate

Some of the major air leakage areas for the average home are: air ducts; window sashes and frames; fireplaces; door sashes and frames; plumbing utilities and wall penetrations; furnace flues; attic entrances; wall outlets; and recessed light fixtures.

9. Fireplaces

Fireplaces should have tightly fitting damp¬ers that can be closed when the fireplace is not in use. Open dampers allow the natural draft of chimneys to pull warm air out in winter and cool air out in summer.

Close fireplace doors when not in use to reduce air infiltration and heat loss.

We’ll be back in the next few weeks with more tips. But until then, you can read about all 100+ Ways to Improve your Electric Bill.

Weatherstripping

Stop air leaks and the loss of conditioned air

By the Editor of Guide To Home Improvement

If the wind seems to blow through your windows in the winter, it’s time to get serious and reduce air loss. By sealing leaks and adding insulation in key spots, you can boost your energy savings by as much as 20 percent, according to Energy Star.

The energy savings are based on a standard 3 bedroom house with 1,500 square feet of conditioned floor area and 20 percent duct leakage.

Here’s how to approach this important home improvement project. First, take stock of your doors and windows, and any other sources of air leaks. Consider replacing older windows that have single pane glass, inoperable ropes and pulleys, and unappealing designs.

Here’s a good overview from the U.S. Department of Energy on:

1.  Getting an energy assessment

2.  Having a blower door test done to find leaks.

3.  DIY steps to help you reduce air loss

Adding insulation: one part of energy savings picture

Next comes adding insulation, a key solution for keeping out the cold (or the heat in the summer months). If you have an older home without insulation, are feeling uncomfortably cold in the winter or have high energy bills, insulation could be the answer.

The key types to consider, according to cellulose.org are cellulose, fiberglass, spray foam, soy-based foam and cotton/denim. Look for R-values of 19 for the walls and floors and 30 to 36 for an unfinished attic. Check out this chart by Energy Star for tips on which R value fits your region and project.

The Leaking House

Aside from the attic, consider these areas:

1.  Walls

2.  Floors

3.  Basement

Before tossing insulation in the walls, check the following:

1.  Ventilation

2.  Moisture control

3.  Air sealing

And as you plan your home improvement project, remember to look at the bigger energy picture, says the Kansas City Star.

Wyandotte, Michigan, Where are You

Wyandotte, Michigan Gets 4 Million to Save Energy, Could Your Town be next?

by Matt Roush, http://detroit.cbslocal.com

WYANDOTTE – Thanks to more than $4 million in grants secured by Wyandotte Municipal Services from the U. S. Department of Energy and the State of Michigan, funds are available over the next few months to provide Wyandotte residents with free home energy audits and free or deeply discounted energy upgrades that will make their homes more comfortable and energy-efficient.

Every home in Wyandotte qualifies for this program.

“This is an energy efficiency jackpot for Wyandotte and our residents,” said Pamela Tierney, energy services program manager for Wyandotte Municipal Services. “This is a chance for our residents to get a huge helping hand toward making their homes greener and more comfortable while also saving money.”

The program offers every home in Wyandotte a free home energy audit and a number of free energy upgrades like energy-efficient light bulbs, low-flow showerheads and aerators. For residents looking for even greater energy savings, the program offers assistance with the expense of more significant improvements like insulation or duct work. Residents — whether renters or homeowners — may sign up simply by calling the program’s scheduling center at (855) 674-9926 .

A Good Place to Save Energy

But they have to hurry: the program will only run for the next few months.

Wyandotte Municipal Services, or WMS, is running the Residential Energy Audit Program through its “Save a Watt in Wyandotte” initiative with grant funding from the Energy Efficiency and Conservation Block Grant and Better Buildings for Michigan programs. The Residential Energy Audit Program is offered at three levels, depending on residents’ energy needs and desire to make upgrades.

Level One:

which is completely free to residents, involves a home energy review during which an energy advisor assesses energy use and loss and identifies simple in-home adjustments to improve efficiency, such as adding weather stripping or other simple opportunities for energy savings. Free energy savings products may also be installed during this visit, including energy-saving showerheads, aerators, and CFL light bulbs.

Level Two:

offers a deeply discounted package of air-sealing services and materials, all provided by a certified contractor. Level Two may also include a more comprehensive energy audit that can be conducted alone or bundled with other energy-saving measures.

Level Three:

A Good Reason To Weatherize

offers residents the greatest opportunity to increase comfort and energy efficiency through upgrades that include attic or wall insulation, furnace or air conditioning replacements, geothermal energy system installation and more extensive air-sealing packages. These upgrades are eligible for numerous incentives, increased rebates and very low-interest loans.

In addition to making homes more efficient, the program could provide an added bonus to Wyandotte residents by funding a solar panel project on Wyandotte’s Bacon Memorial District Library. Once one thousand residents participate at any one of the levels, the Better Buildings for Michigan program will fund new solar panels for the roof of the library — an added incentive for citizens to sign up for the program.

“Whether you want to make your home more comfortable, your library more energy-efficient or the planet greener, this is a great program to at last get it done!” said Mayor Joseph R. Peterson. “We’re hoping every resident in our city recognizes this great opportunity and signs up now.”

Home Energy Audit

6 Areas to Address to Effectively Weatherize Your Home

by Reggie Lopes, WellHome,   www.dailyenergyreport.com

Weatherizing a home correctly involves assessing the home’s performance, professionally installing solutions, and guaranteeing the work that is done. Customers must take the right steps to ensure that their return on improving the home exceeds their investment. This value proposition goes beyond financial savings. The additional benefits of weatherization may include comfort, air-quality, safety, durability, reliability, and efficiency gains.

A Trusted Certified Advisor

Each and every weatherization improvement should engage the services of a trusted certified advisor who will ensure the solution delivers exceptional value. Consider this analogy; a doctor does not write a prescription without evaluating the patient. They take the time to examine the patient and order additional tests as necessary. They help us make an informed decision as to how to treat our condition. A home being weatherized is no different. Determining how much insulation and air sealing is needed, where and how it should be installed, if the windows and doors need replacing, if the HVAC system is appropriate and operating properly, and other such assessments requires the diagnostic capabilities of a professional.

Experienced Weatherization Contractor

Weatherization begins with a customer meeting with a weatherization company to discuss the issues that are taking place in the home. Next, the company’s advisors begin testing the home. Tests will include the house pressure testing (also known as blower door testing), duct testing, combustion appliance testing, and infrared scanning. The results of these tests will be analyzed with advanced software to determine how the house can be most effectively improved.

Attic Insulation & Air Sealing

These solutions are presented to the homeowner in a customized plan that articulates how to best maximize efficiency and comfort, while minimizing cost. These detailed plans do not come from guessing or a simple visual survey, but from taking the time to do a proper assessment and analysis.

These plans will address the following areas:

● Insulation

Infrared cameras reveal where conditioned air is leaking through the attic, walls, and basement. This data helps to determine the right type, and amount of insulation to add to reduce heat from moving and improve the home’s insulation.

Insulation keeps cool air inside during the summer the same way it keeps warm air inside during the winter. A home that has insulation is a much more energy-efficient home than one that doesn’t. After insulation is properly placed, a home’s utility bills will decline.

● Heating and Cooling

High Efficiency Furnace

Big appliances don’t mean bigger performance. If an HVAC system is too large for a home, it may never run at optimum efficiency. If the system is too small, then it might not keep you comfortable and frequent HVAC services may be needed. Ensuring that you have a right-sized heating, ventilating and cooling (HVAC) system is the most energy-efficient and comfortable solution for your home. Sometimes a new HVAC system isn’t required – just simple HVAC services.

● Duct tightening

Duct tightening can reduce temperature fluctuation. When ducts are tight, air pressure is consistent and an even amount of conditioned air enters all rooms of the house. So, duct tightening can help address room-to-room variations in temperature.

● Air Sealing

Conditioned air shouldn’t escape through cracks and crevices in our homes, such as drafty windows, leaky doors, or around other holes. Air coming into and out of the home should be controlled through proper ventilation, minimizing the air that leaks in or out. The blower door test forces air through the home, revealing areas where conditioned air escapes. During installation, air leaks will be stopped with caulk, foam, and other materials.

High Efficiency Windows

● Windows

Well-performing windows keep outside air outside and conditioned air inside. If there are gaps between windows and frames, comfort and energy efficiency may be compromised. Glazing and glass can also affect home performance. Low-E coated windows reflect heat in summer, keep heat inside in winter, and reduce UV rays. The advisor should also check for a tight fit between glass and frame. When installing replacement windows, sealing gaps can prevent airflow and thus conditioned air loss.

● Lighting

Little changes make a big impact. An ENERGY STAR-qualified compact fluorescent lightbulb (CFL) will save about $30 over its lifetime, and pays for itself in about 6 months. Compared to an incandescent bulb, it uses 75% less energy and lasts about 10x longer.

Once the right package of solutions is identified, they need to be implemented by a team of installation professionals with the knowledge, skill, and training to do the job right the first time. The value, savings, and comfort will then be recognized in the following weeks, months, and years. The realization is that as energy costs continue to rise, the need for energy efficient retrofits, like weatherization, will become more of a necessity.

Written by Reggie Lopes, WellHome. WellHome is a company that specializes in home energy efficiency.

Did not see this on map

Hot Tub’s Ready to Go, Using Power All Winter

by Don Ames,   www.detectenergy.com

Finding a new address can be a little rough out here in the country. It doesn’t help when the Google Map misses the important fact that a road is actually a dead end and it doesn’t connect with another road like Google thinks. So I find two dead end roads instead of a nice continuous loop. And, as is always the case, I am on the wrong dead end. Oh well, Lewis and Clark probably had to do a little backtracking too.

The home I am auditing today is what I call an “unfortunate neighbor” home. On the way down the gravel road, I have the privilege of passing “through” the neighbors property. There is no doubt that this neighbor operates a recycling business in the front yard. Well, in the front yard, the side yard, the back yard and the hillside across the road.

When I see a budding business like this, two things come to mind. One is the amount of toxic fluids that gets released into the ground like oil, gas, antifreeze, brake fluid, transmission fluid, paint, grease, etc. The other thing I wonder about is who the lucky soul is going to be that gets to clean up this mess. Business enterprises like this tend to just go away someday leaving the business stockpile behind.

Country Recycling

Despite the neighbors, the audit today is taking place at a well kept manufactured home that sits next to a beautiful stream. There are plenty of big rocks, big trees, and open space. The 2001 home is set on a block foundation with a large deck out back that over looks the stream. A very nice jetted hot tub sits off one end of the deck.

Hot Tub Power:

As I stood on the front deck listening to the cascading stream, I decided to take a look at the hot tub.

The homeowner has one of the maintenance doors open and is working on something inside.  It seems a lightening storm has recently knocked out the power board. The Spa Guy, according to the homeowner, has installed a new board that is suppose to be a little smaller and offer some energy savings. The homeowner was just getting the tub up and running again.

Lightening Storms and Electronics:

Lightening storms can be hard on electronic devices. Whether you’re in a lightening storm area or not, if you don’t have a surge protector on your valuable electronics, I would suggest you get one connected before the day is out.

Mother Board

A hot tub has an electronic dashboard that uses power continuously, a water pump that circulates the water through the filter and a stronger, larger pump that powers the water jets. And, of course, a hot tub has a water heater. Between the pumps, heaters and electronics, a hot tub can contribute significantly to a  power bill.

I ask the homeowner if they use the hot tube often and I learn that they often use it several times a week, even through the winter. I visit many homes where the hot tub is kept warm and circulating all the time, yet never used. Many homeowners  feel that keeping the ol’ tub going keeps it from freezing and helps keep the water fresh by circulating the water cleaning chemicals.

I remind people that timers can be added to a hot tub so the tube is active only a couple times a day for an hour or two. The timer allows the hot tub to run often enough to keep the tub and water in good condition, but keeps the tub from using continuous power.

Here’s how one happy tub owner has calculated the power usage.

“Your 310 kWh in 29 days represents slightly less than half a kilowatt per hour over that period, which is the energy necessary to compensate for a temperature drop of a bit under 1/2 degree per hour in a 400-gallon spa. Seems like a reasonable ballpark figure to me. (Back-of-the-envelope math: 400 gallons of water is about 3,300 pounds. It takes one BTU to heat a pound of water one degree F, and a kilowatt-hour is roughly equivalent to 3,400 BTU. Therefore it takes a tad under one kilowatt-hour of energy to raise the temperature one degree in a 400-gallon tub. 29 days = 696 hours. 310 divided by 696 = 0.45 kilowatts every hour, 24 hours per day, for 29 days, on average.)”

With the cost of electricity at 15 cents a kilowatt/hour, the hot tub is costing $46.50 a month or $558 per year.

Insulation

Factors That Contribute to an Energy Efficient Hot Tub.

1.  R-Value:

A hot tub has an R-value that represents the insulation in the shell and floor. The higher the R-Value, the slower heat passes through the shell to the outside.

2.  Foam Insulation:

Look for a lot of foam insulation that retains heat and does not react to moisture. Icynene foam is a good product to insulate a hot tub.

3. The Hot Tub Cover:

Upgrading the cover can increase the insulation value and contribute to lower heating costs.

4.  Circulating Pump:

A circulating pump should draw about 0.4 amps. Since this pump runs continuously, look for some efficiency here. The lower the amps, the less it costs to operate.

Hot tub Sections

5.  Standby Wattage:

Or, how much juice does the hot tub use when it is in standby mode? It’s best not to make your final decision based on standby efficiency. A tub scores high with low usage here, may not score to well when you need some real hydrotherapy.

Other Energy Efficient Considerations:

A hot tub should not be purchased simply on the strength of it’s energy efficiency. If you want a hot tub to soak in, look for low wattage, small pumps, and fewer gallons of water.

If you looking for hydrotherapy because the old body just doesn’t want to get out of bed, Up the wattage a little and get some pumps that will make a dent in the skin.

How to Keep the Water Hot:

The actual energy usage to keep your spa hot depends on these three things.

1. Insulation

The amount and kind of insulation in the tub surround.

2.  Cover

To keep the water hot, up-grade to a well insulated and sealed cover.

3.  The outside temperature.

Hot Tub as a Unit

The greater the difference in the temperature of the water and the outside air, the greater effort and energy the tub will need to go through to keep hot.

Well, so far, all this home energy audit has accomplished is to take a closer look at the hot tub. The reason it is important is because the hot tub can be a forgotten energy user, particularly through the winter months. You see it everyday, it has a cover over it, and it kind of gets forgotten.

If your not using it, wouldn’t it be fun to unplug the power and drain the water. If you do that, don’t forget to check your power bill and see if a little of the expense has drained from it also.

And, if you would like to pick up a hot tub on the second hand market, I know where there is a least a dozen of them at this great recycle place out in the county.

Next Up, a Hole in the wall:

When I walked through the living room I noticed a nice wood stove, I also noticed a heating register mounted about 4 feet up on the interior wall opposite the stove. Can’t wait to take a closer look at that!

Thanks for stopping by Detect Energy, hope to see you again real soon, but I won’t leave the light on for you…

Kermit Supports Green

If Your Going to Remodel or Up-Grade, Do it With a Green Focus.

By the Editor, Guide to Home Improvement,  www.guidetohomeimprovement.com

A green remodeling project not only reflects your commitment to creating a healthy place in which to live with your family, it impacts your entire community. Sustainability reduces your carbon footprint with a rippling effect. You care responsibly for your housing needs while impacting the quality of life for all who come after you.

Here are four reasons for remodeling with a green focus:

Savings.

Energy-efficient windows, doors and green insulation protect your investment, cut utility bills, and impact the planet. Newer, efficient appliances reduce operating costs and save thousands of gallons of water a year. Find a certified windows installer to start your project now.

Home value.

Focus on Green

In a stalled housing market, consumers often prefer green homes over water and power guzzlers. Many might be willing to pay more for them.

Your health.

The Environmental Protection Agency cites poor indoor air quality among the highest health risks. Volatile organic compounds used in paints, flooring and other products create indoor air quality up to five times worse than outdoor air, leading to respiratory illnesses in children.

Your community.

Construction waste from toxic home remodeling projects end up in your local landfill. When you cut water waste and burn less fuel to heat your home, you cut the amount of greenhouse gases that enter our common environment.

You don’t have to go it alone in green construction. Contractors are building their skills in sustainable remodeling to remain competitive. Building professionals can help you identify cost-efficient, eco-friendly products that make sense in today’s world.

Back Seat Driver

Find the Best Ride For Your Money

By Nathan Poell,  www.motherearthnews.com

You can find a reliable ride that will take you places, without any gasoline.

Maybe the gleam of aluminum and shiny rubber broke your “thriftbone.” Maybe that rusty old Western Flyer finally gave out on you. Maybe you’d just like to use a saddle that hasn’t been broken in by someone else’s butt. For whatever reason, you’ve decided to purchase a new bike.

Great idea! For about $450, you can snag yourself a reliable vehicle that can take you as far as your legs can manage. That may sound like a lot of money up front, especially when you can get a new bike from Wal-Mart for less than $200. The key term, though, is reliable.

Bikes sold from discount stores are, by and large, poorly made and sloppily assembled; often they can’t even be repaired. Buying a new cheap bike every year or so (to replace a broke one) versus buying a solidly built bike that can last decades quickly becomes a losing proposition.

And besides, that $450 is, for the most part, a one-time expense. That a new bike won’t require any $4 a gallon gas, ever. Beyond routine maintenance and the occasional repair job, you’ll have a fun, reliable ride for the long term. The more you ride it, the more you’ll save and the better shape you’ll be in.

If new wheels aren’t in the cards for you right now, odds are you can find a quality used bike.

For Comfort

Answer Me These Questions Three

Before you slap down your hard-earned money for a bike, though, ponder why, where and how you’re riding or want to ride. Answering those questions will help you figure out what bike will best fit your needs.

So, why do you want to ride — to exercise, commute to work, run errands or just for leisure? Where do you want to ride — potholed city streets, open roads, gravel bike trails, maybe a mix of environments? Finally, how do you like to ride — in an upright position, leisurely paced or always leaning forward, in race mode wherever you go?

Mountain Bikes

If your main terrain is pockmarked streets and/or bike trails, a mountain bike will probably be your best bet. Chances are you won’t need a dual-suspension bike, but you would feel better on a hardtail with front shock absorbers if the streets are especially bad. My main commuting/errand running/around town bike is a hardtail mountain bike with a right (non-shock absorper) front fork and semi-slick tires. Semi-slick tires grab blacktop better than knobby mountain bike tires, so if you’ll be riding in town, get a pair of those. Kona, Specialized, Trek and many other manufacturers make excellent mountain bikes that sell for $500 or less. Check out Mountain Bike Review for ratings on the latest models.

Riding Together

Touring Bikes

If you take to the open road more often, you’ll probably want a road or touring bike. These feature drop handlebars, larger wheels and narrower tires than mountain bikes, and have different frame geometry than other bikes. You know the noodle-looking handlebars that were on most ’70s Schwinns? Those are drop bars, but modern drop bars are more comfortable than those oldies. The price on entry-level road bikes can be a bit higher than entry-level mountain bikes, but check around at your local bike shop(s) — they may have a previous year’s model on sale for cheap. Road Bike Review has ratings on the latest models.

Cruiser & City Bikes

If you’re just into leisurely riding around town and like the upright riding position, check into a cruiser bike. These are curvalicious, fairly heavy balloon-tired bikes with swept back handlebars that are fun to ride as long as the road is more or less flat. Many of them come equipped with stylish yet functional fenders, which is one less accessory to buy (see below).

A closely related bike style is the city bike, which is a bit lighter than a cruiser, with narrower tires and more/higher gearing. Ask your local bike shop about these styles, and see if any pique your interest.

With a modern Twist

Choose Weight Wisely

The frame style is important, but that’s not all you’re buying. You’re getting a whole heap of components that connect the frame and the road to your butt and hands, plus help you go and stop. Most modern bicycle components — shifting levers, brake levers, brakes, derailleurs, cranksets, etc. — are high quality and durable.

The main difference between high- and low-end parts is weight. The more you pay, the lighter (and, generally, slightly more durable) the components. Having lighter stuff on your bike makes it easier to push up hills, but the components really shouldn’t be the deciding factor in your bike purchase.

Regardless what material the frame is made of, how feather light the action on the shifters is or whether the tires leave trails of real flame wherever they go, you’re not going to ride the bike if it’s uncomfortable. Fortunately, most frames — as long as they’re appropriately sized for the rider’s height — can be made to fit almost anybody’s particular body geometry.

This is, of course, absolutely specific to each person, so the only way you’re going to figure out what’s best for you is to sit on a few bikes and see what’s comfortable and what needs adjusting (handlebar height, saddle height, etc.). Most bike shops will help fit the bike to you; some will even loan you a bike for a day so you have time to figure out if it’s right for you.

Part Pickup

Useful Accessories

Once you have your new bike, hit the road. But it may not be long before you want a few accessories, particularly if you’re using the bike for commuting. Full-coverage fenders are a virtual necessity, and a rack with pannier bags can be a convenient relief from wearing a backpack while you ride. A bell is handy and fun to ring at squirrels. Lights are a must if you ride at night or early morning. If you have a caffeine monkey on your back, you can even buy a handlebar-mounted cupholder. Finally, it goes without saying, but buy (and use!) a bike helmet. They save lives. ‘Nuff said.

All right, you bought it and tricked it out. Now ride it. But be aware that the components on the bike may give you trouble a little sooner than you expect: brakes might stick, you may be unable to shift to the lowest or highest gear, the wheels may feel too “flexy,” etc. These are pretty much normal symptoms of your bike breaking in, and they typically happen within the first 200 miles or so of riding. Once your bike starts to feel a bit off, take it back to the shop where you bought it.

Most reputable bike shops will do post break-in service for free. Even if it’s not free, the small charge to get it done will be well worth it in the long run. (And if they do, be sure to become a loyal customer.)

Basic Maintenance

So all that’s left is to ride it and, heaven forbid, fix things if they break. Taking the bike into a knowledgeable mechanic is fine, but it can get expensive. Learning to perform basic maintenance (tire changing, chain lubing,) is fun and can save you money. Here are a few great online resources: Park Tool’s repair help section, articles from the late bike expert Sheldon Brown and the Bicycle Mechanics section of Bike Forums.

Sometimes though — like, speaking from experience, when you’re in front of your half-disassembled bike with hands coated in grime and grease and your wife won’t let you in the house (much less near the computer) — you need a hardcopy helper, so here are some excellent paper-based references:

Read more: http://www.motherearthnews.com/Green-Transportation/How-To-Choose-New-Bike.aspx?page=3#ixzz1mhQOXkrK

Read more: http://www.motherearthnews.com/Green-Transportation/How-To-Choose-New-Bike.aspx?page=2#ixzz1mhQ5WARp

Read more: http://www.motherearthnews.com/Green-Transportation/How-To-Choose-New-Bike.aspx#ixzz1mhPVapCl

Sign of the Times

Washington State has found a great Way to Encourage Electric Vehicles

by Michael Graham Richard,   www.treehugger.com

Terrible Idea (At Least for Now)

We all know about the concept of “win-win”, an action that provides benefits to both parties. Well, Washington State’s legislators seem to be more inclined to pass “lose-lose” laws… The state senate has passed a bill that would charge a $100 annual feel to electric car drivers to “to compensate for the lack of gas taxes they pay.” The general concept is not without merit and the amount is not that big – after all, electric cars also use the roads and cause some wear & tear – but the timing is bad.

They’re acting at cross-purpose with other governmental (state & federal) tax credits for electric vehicles. What’s the point of giving on one side and then take away on the other? They’ll only raise very very small sums because its so early in electric car adoption, so it won’t really help maintain roads. I’m not even sure if they’ll raise enough to pay for what it cost to pass that law and enforce it…

In fact, the random variation in miles driven by big trucks on any given day probably causes more wear & tear on Washington’s roads than all electric cars combined over 10 years. Big trucks cause exponentially more damage (ie. a truck 100 times heavier than a car might cause 1,000 or 10,000X more damage to a road).

History of Electric Cars

So not only won’t they raise much money and do anything for roads, but they’ll also slow down electric vehicle adoption — that’s what taxes do, when you tax something, you get less of it, which is why it’s better to tax bad things like pollution than good things like work. This is too bad because in a state with lots of hydro power, electric cars are particularly clean.

An Idea Whose Time Has Not Come

Maybe down the road when electric cars are a significant chunk of vehicles on the road, charging a fee for road maintenance will be a good idea. But right now, at this infancy stage, they need to be encouraged, not discouraged. If more money needs to be raised for roads, raising gas taxes is the logical place to look. US has very low gas taxes by world standards, and they haven’t kept up with inflation over time, so it’s no surprise that there’s a budget shortfall. I bet that by raising gas taxes by 0.1 cent you’d raise more money than by squeezing electric car early adopters…

Agreeing on terms

When and how much should you pay the Contractor?

By the Editor of Guide To Home Improvement, www.guidetohomeimprovement.com

When to pay the contractor? It’s a common question. Many remodeling contractors want you to put 30 percent down on a project. Should you? No, that’s too much.

Getting in the Contractor’s Business

My philosophy is that a remodeling contractor is running a business and should have enough credit to buy materials and pay subcontractors to get the work started. Putting down 10 to 15 percent on a bigger project is fine. Angie’s List readers recommend not paying the contractor ahead of the remodeling being done.

According to resources on Citi-Data.com, pay in segments after sections are completed. And, don’t pay a contractor in cash–no way to track it.

Contractor Bids–Confusing at Best!

And, while you’re at it, what about those contractor bids? If the details can fit on the back of a napkin, tell the contractor to try again. An article on Ask the Builder recommends making sure you have all the details from a contractor, down to who will be working at your home and what type of toilet they will install.

Getting it in Writing

Avoiding the Bad Contractors

We once had a home improvement contractor remove trim to install drywall…then tell us we had to pay another $2,000 for him to reinstall the trim. Umm….silly us. We thought that was part of the contract. Why would we hire someone to remove the trim without knowing he would put it back on?

Our contractor was a bad egg, but some situations are just caused by miscommunication. Before you commit to a home improvement project, go through the details with the contractor.

If a remodeling contractor asks for 30 percent down, don’t assume he’s a “bad” contractor. Simply ask why he needs that much money up front. Doesn’t he have credit with his suppliers? Explain your position–you don’t want to be left hanging if workers don’t show up. The contractor’s reaction should tell you all you need to know about how he does business.